Along the backpacker’s trail you hear about particular “can’t miss” activities like the Camino de Santiago in Spain, Machu Picchu in Peru and recently popular the 2 day slow boat trip down the Mekong River in Laos. As the country has become more of a tourist destination many travelers have moved past the border of familiar Thailand to explore a place less traveled.
The European Council on Tourism and Trade (ECTT) has awarded Laos the “World’s Best Tourist Destination for 2013.” The ECTT cited Laos’ promotion of free and fair tourism, tourist safety and access to sites of cultural and historical significance as reasons to honor Laos. Luang Prabang, which is the endpoint of the slow boat journey, is a UNESCO World Heritage Destination.
The typical slow boat path starts at the border town of Chiang Khong in Thailand. Here trekkers stamp out at Thai passport control and walk down to the bank of the Mekong River to catch a short wooden boat. The trip takes 2 mins to cross over to Huay Xai in Laos.
The main commerce in Huay Xai revolves around catering to slow-boaters before they take off early the next day on their journey. There are a few decent restaurants and guesthouses but nothing noteworthy. We stayed at the Phonevintch guesthouse, which is the closest accommodation to the boat launch. It also has air conditioning, which is hard to come by in this region, as well as some very nice views overlooking the Mekong River. Otherwise, Huay Xai is very much a classic “border town.”
Quick Tips- Arrive more than an hour before the boat leaves. The company sells more tickets than there are seats. Many people end up riding on the floor or standing on the back of the boat breathing the engine fumes. The early bird gets the good seats.
- The boats don’t serve lunch. There is a small snack bar with beer, soda, ramen noodles and cookies. Most guesthouses in both Houay Xai and Packbeng sell packaged lunches for the slowboaters.
- Your backpacks are loaded under the boat so have your important items in your carry on pack.
- Most boats have cushioned seats. Some of the older boats have wood benches. When you purchase your tickets inquire if the seats are wooden or cushioned and prepare accordingly.
The slow boat should arrive into the half way point of Pakbeng around 6 p.m. for the first night’s stay. When you get off the boat in Pakbeng there are swarms of Lao people with laminated brochures showcasing their guesthouses. Sometimes these can be ok, but be sure to ask lots of questions. How far away is it? Do you provide transportation to and from the dock? Do you serve breakfast before we get on the boat? Do you offer a brownbag lunch for tomorrow?
The journey the second day is smooth and the views off the Mekong are greener as you head south. The boat journey ends in Luang Prabang, which is rightfully the most touristic city in Laos. There’s a plentiful supply of lovely guesthouses around the very quaint and walkable downtown area. Also, Luang Prabang has some of the highest quality food in South East Asia.
In the downtown area you can find great food at a few different places. If you are searching for an easy lunch spot specializing in healthy food and European coffee drinks, try Saffron. Tamarind is famously the best Lao food in town at a reasonable budget. For a higher end option try L’Elephant, which delivers farm-to-table French inspired food with unique plays on typical European flavors.
After days of staying in less than inspiring accommodations and sitting cooped in a boat, you may want to indulge a little while in Luang Prabang. A visit to La Residece Phou Vao will do the trick.
This hotel hosts lush tropical grounds and the famously best view of town set high atop a hill only 5 mins away from the city center. The accommodations take luxury to the next level. If you can’t spend the night, visit the Phou Savanh restaurant for an early dinner so you can watch the dramatic sunset over town paired with a crisp glass of white wine. Watch the Lao sky illuminate with dramatic pinks, golds and purples while surrounded by hundreds of flickering candles and glowing paper lanterns. It’s simply magical.
For more information about travel is Laos check out their Tourism organization here. http://www.tourismlaos.org/
